Canyoning Grading System(s) for the UK

As canyoning arrived and developed in the UK so has the gradinging systems we use. When the UKCG (UK Canyon Guides) was initially set up there was a lot of influence from the USA canyoning scene the ACA (American Canyoneering Association) and Richard Carlson as a technical consultant for developing the association. Along with that influence came the ACA grading system which was created around the dry desert canyons in Utah. 

Over the years more influence has come from the Alpine or European canyoning scene, our UK canyons are far more similar to the aquatic alpine canyons of Europe, subsequently we have started to adopt the international grading system or the FFME grading system. This system is more specific than the ACA grading system specifically grading Verticality and Aquatic characteristics of our canyons more in depth.   

Canyons appear in a variety of different forms, and hazards, like slippery surfaces or dangerous water movements, change depending on the environment. How hazards are managed is a matter of personal preference, which creates some subjectivity in grading.

Be cautious with which canyons you choose to do. If your skills and abilities don’t match the canyon, you can easily get yourself into trouble. And the risk isn’t dependent upon us alone, our other teammates must have sufficient abilities and skills to get down safely too. Trip Leaders normally have the most skills, and the canyon’s level should never be pushing your abilities and experience. 

While defining the grade of a canyon is dependent on the person doing the grading, there are some factors shared between grading systems.

First, a canyon is normally graded according to its most difficult section, such as a big waterfall or strong water movement.

Second, the grade is based on factors such as the time of year, presence of anchors, number of participants, skill of participants, etc,. A canyon’s grading system can change if any of these factors are affected. The biggest changes occur after large flooding events, where entire waterfalls can be destroyed or created.

And lastly, a canyon grading is only a small piece of the picture. Using topo maps, guidebooks, and talking to knowledgeable locals is important for knowing what to expect.

Depending on your training, influence or region will depend on what grading system you will use. The UKCA now adopts the FFME grading system, but we are fully aware canyoneers are still using the ACA grading system below we will give you information on both systems, how they work and how to grade a canyon accordingly.  

FFME (International) rating system definition

The grading is based on a normal water flow during the regular canyoning season. This water level is relatively low, but not the lowest the water flow can get.

The grade is based on a group of 5 people who will descend the canyon for the first-time (on-sight), and whose technical ability is equivalent to the technical level of the canyon.

The descent should be done at a regular and reasonable pace, for the sake of safety and efficiency. (A personal record will not change the initial grading of the canyon.)

As a reminder, canyons are graded as follows:

The letter “V” followed by one Arabic numeral from 1 to 7 which corresponds to an increase in the difficulty of the vertical character.

The letter “A” followed by one Arabic numeral from 1 to 7 which corresponds to an increase in the difficulty of the aquatic character.

One Roman numeral for the commitment and exposure: from I to VI which corresponds to an increase in difficulty.

For example canyons rated v2.a3.III, or v5.a6.V, or v4.a5.III

DIFFICULTY

v : Vertical character

a : Aquatic character

1

Very easy

No compulsory vertical pitch. Absence of anchors and traverse lines, rope and harness are unnecessary for a normal, safe progression.


No climbing / down-climbing

No water or walking in calm water.

Swimming is optional.

No jumps.

No slides.

2

Easy

Accessing the anchor and rappelling are easy, verticals less than or equal to 10m in height.


Presence of traverse lines.


Climbing/down-climbing is easy and a bit exposed.

Swim no longer than 10m in calm water.


Easy jumps less than 3m in height.


Short or gently sloping slide.

3

A Little Difficult

Vertical pitches with a low water flow, and landing in a calm pool requiring swimming.


Accessing the anchors and rappelling is simple, pitches are less than or equal to 30m in height, separated by flat areas large enough to let the team regroup.


Traverse lines are easy to set-up and use.


The technique for “walking” requires extra attention (specific foot placements) and analyzing the terrain which can be slippery, unstable, uneven, constricted, or in the water.


Climbing / down-climbing (up to 3c French Climbing Grade), which are a bit exposed and may require using a rope.

Swims no further than 30m in calm water.


Easy jumps from 3m to 5m.


Long  or moderately sloped slides.

4

Somewhat Difficult

Vertical pitches with low to medium flows that can knock a rappeller off balance or stop them.


Accessing the anchor is difficult and/or the pitch’s height is greater than 30m. Multi-pitch rappels with comfortable anchor locations.


Rope will pass over abrasion points.


Difficult to use traverse lines, portions of the pitch or the bottom of the pitch are not visible from the anchor, landing pools with water movements.


Climbing / down-climbing up to 4c French Climbing Grade or A0 Aid Climbing Grade, exposed and/or necessary to use belaying techniques.

Prolonged immersion in water resulting in high energy loss.


Large sieves/siphons less than 1m long and/or underwater.


Simple jumps between 5m and 8m.


Jumps less than 5m with difficult take-offs, trajectories, or landing.


Big  or steep sloped slides.

5

Difficult

Vertical pitches with medium to high flow, difficult descent requiring trajectory management and/or balance.


Multi-pitch rappels with hanging belays. Negotiation of hanging pools during descent.


Slippery surface or the presence of an obstacle.


Retrieving the rope is difficult (i.e.. while swimming, etc.)


Exposed climbing / down-climbing, up to

5c French Climbing Grade or A1 Aid Climbing Grade.

Prolonged immersion in cold water resulting in significant energy loss.


Swimming in strong current that can affect a swimmer’s path, such as ferrying, recirculating current, and current direction changes.


Whitewater movements such as hydraulics, eddies, trap pools, and undercuts that may trap a canyoner for a short period of time.


Large sieves/siphons up to 2m long and/or underwater.


Simple jumps between 8m and 10m.


Jumps between 5m and 8m with difficult take-offs, trajectories, or landing.

6

Very Difficult

Exposed

Vertical pitches with strong to very strong water flow. Sustained waterfalls. Very difficult descent requiring trajectory management and/or balance.


Rigging anchors is difficult: creating marginal natural anchors (rock pinch, etc.).

Accessing the anchor is difficult (setting up a traverse line is very delicate, etc.)


Exposed climbing / down-climbing, up to

6a French Climbing Grade or A2 Aid Climbing Grade.


Very slippery or unstable surfaces.


Landing pools are emulsified with air bubbles.

Difficult swimming in strong currents which affect a swimmer’s path, such as ferrying, recirculating current, and current direction changes.


Obvious whitewater movements such as hydraulics, eddies, trap pools, and undercuts that will trap a canyoner for a period of time.


Technical siphons/sieves up to 1m with current or eventual current.


Large sieves/siphons up to 3m long and/or underwater.

7

Extremely Difficult

Very Exposed

Vertical pitches with very strong to extremely strong water flow. Very sustained waterfalls. Extremely difficult descent requiring special management of the rope, of trajectory, of balance, and rhythm.


Exposed climbing / down-climbing, above

6a French Climbing Grade or A2 Aid Climbing Grade.


Limited visibility and frequent obstacles. Rappels finish in powerful water movements or pools.


Control over breathing: sections requiring apnea.

Extremely difficult swimming in very strong current which affect a swimmer’s path, such as ferrying, recirculating current, and current direction changes.


Whitewater movements such as hydraulics, eddies, trap pools, and undercuts that will trap a canyoner for a long period of time.


Technical siphons/sieves greater than 1m with current or eventual current or without visibility.


Large sieves/siphons greater than 3m long and/or underwater.

Commitment / Duration Table

Attention: The times referenced below should be adjusted according to the group profile.

Commitment / Duration

Criteria

I

Able to get away from a flood easily and quickly. 

Easy escapes all along the canyon.

Total time (approach, descent, return) less than 2 hours.

II

Able to get away from a flood within 15 minutes of progression.

Escapes are possible within 30 minutes of progression.

Total time (approach, descent, return) within 2 to 4 hours.

III

Able to get away from a flood within 30 minutes of progression.

Escapes are possible within 1 hour of progression.

Total time (approach, descent, return) within 4 to 8 hours.

IV

Able to get away from a flood within 1 hour of progression.

Escapes are possible within 2 hours of progression.

Total time (approach, descent, return) within 8 hours to 1 day.

V

Able to get away from a flood within 2 hours of progression.

Escapes are possible within 4 hours of progression.

Total time (approach, descent, return) within 1 to 2 days.

VI

The possibility to get away from a flood requires more than 2 hours of progression.

Escapes are possible after 4 hours of progression.

Total time (approach, descent, return) greater than 2 days.

ACA (American Canyoneering Academy) Rating System

The following is excerpted from ACA Canyon Ratings, May 24, 2015 2 

The basic format of the ACA Canyon Rating System includes two digits. The first digit is numeric and represents the values described below related to terrain and rope work. The second digit is an alpha character representing the values described below related to water volume and current. Additional values may be added to represent relative risk and time/commitment. Ratings are cumulative. For example: descending a Class 3 canyon will require the skills listed under Class 3, as well as those listed under Classes 1 and 2. 

NOTE: Ratings refer to descents in normal conditions, during what is considered the normal season for the canyon. Adverse conditions, such as higher than normal water volume or colder temperatures, will increase the difficulty of the descent. 

TERRAIN / TECHNICAL ROPE WORK 

1

Canyon Hiking Non-technical; no rope required. May involve some easy scrambling requiring the occasional use of hands for balance and support. Travel is possible up or down the canyon. See route description for more information.

2

Basic Canyoneering Scrambling, easy vertical or near vertical climbing and/or down-climbing requiring frequent use of hands. Rope recommended for hand lines, belays, lowering packs and possible emergency use. Travel is possible up or down the canyon. See route description for more information.

3

Intermediate Canyoneering Exposed technical climbing. Down-climbing could be difficult and dangerous; most people will rappel. Rope required for belays and single-pitch rappels. Obvious natural or fixed anchors. Retreat up canyon will require ascending fixed ropes. Basic pothole escape techniques (i.e. partner assist, counterweights) may also be required. See route description for more information.

4

Advanced-Expert Canyoneering Route may involve any combination of the following: 1) difficult and exposed free climbing and/or down-climbing, 2) climbing using direct aid, 3) multi-pitch rappels, 4) complex rope work (i.e. guided rappels, deviations, rebelays), 5) obscure or indistinct natural anchors, 6) advanced problem-solving and anchor-building skills. See route description for more information.

 

WATER VOLUME / CURRENT

A

Normally dry or very little water. Dry falls. Water, if present, can be avoided and/or is very shallow. Shoes may get wet, but no wetsuit or drysuit required.

B

Normally has water with no current or very light current. Still pools. Falls normally dry or running at a trickle. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures.

C

Normally it has water with current. Waterfalls. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming in current. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures. Class C canyons may be rated more precisely using the following system: 

C1 - Normally has water with light to moderate current. Easy water hazards.

C2 - Normally has water with strong current. Water hazards like hydraulics and siphons require advanced skills and special care. 

C3 - Normally has water with very strong current. Dangerous water hazards. Experts only. 

C4 - Extreme problems and hazards will be difficult to overcome, even for experienced experts with strong swimming skills.

NOTE: Water level in any canyon can fluctuate greatly from year-to-year, season-to-season, even day-to-day. If, upon arrival at a canyon, you discover the water volume/ current is greater than indicated by the rating, descent will be more difficult than suggested by the route description. It will be necessary to reevaluate your decision to attempt the descent.

RISK / SERIOUSNESS (OPTIONAL)

G

General Audiences. Should be straight-forward for those who possess appropriate skills.

PG

Parental Guidance Suggested. Even with appropriate skills, beginners may sweat.

R

Risky. One or more extraordinary risk factors exist that could complicate the descent. Solid technical skills and sound judgment critical. Not recommended for beginners.

X

Extreme. Multiple risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Errors in technique or judgment will likely result in serious injury or death. Descent should only be attempted by expert canyoneers.

XX

Double Extreme. Definitely life-threatening.

NOTE: The presence of a risk/seriousness rating suggests that the canyon will involve a higher than average risk. The absence of a risk/seriousness rating does not suggest that there will be no risk. All canyoneering involves risk. 

Risk factors include the number and frequency of rappels, length of rappels (single- or double-rope) and exposure, anchor availability, anchor quality, route finding, obstacles, problem-solving, terrain encountered between technical sections, flash flood potential, availability of exits and high ground, water temperature, prolonged immersion, and difficulty of evacuation or rescue. Specific factors should be addressed in the route description.

TIME / COMMITMENT (OPTIONAL)

Half Day

I

Short. Normally it requires only a couple of hours.

II

Normally it requires a half day.

Full Day

III

Normally it requires most of a day.

IV

Expected to take one long, full day. Get an early start. Bring a head lamp. Plan for possible bivy.

Multi-Day

V

Expected to take an average one and a half days. 

VI

Expected to take two or more days.

NOTE: Time estimates are based on an average group of 6 people or less. Larger groups and less experienced groups will take longer. An accurate self-assessment of your abilities will be important. For some users, it may be adequate to refer to time in terms of half day, full day or multi day. Others may prefer a more specific estimate and choose to use the Roman Numeral Grade system common in traditional multi-pitch rock climbing.

Canyon grading systems support canyon selection for your recreational descents. As the terrain can vary significantly between geographical areas, different grading systems compensate to more accurately represent the canyon rating in each region. Knowing the meaning of each variable on both of these rating systems allows us to choose canyons equivalent to our skill level anywhere in the world.

References

1  Normes de Classement Canyon: https://www.ffme.fr/uploads/federation/documents/reglements/canyonisme/canyonisme-classement.pdf (French)

2 ACA Canyon Ratings: http://www.canyoneering.net/docs/ratings.pdf